“You don’t really see anybody cater to Canadians,” says Joel Northam. He and his partners have decided to try. Northam, Toine Murphy, Craig Comer, and Hilaire Tolsma have opened a two-in-one “Canadian corner” at South University and Forest. Half popular Canadian franchise and half college town bar, Smoke’s Poutinerie and The Beaver Trap opened in the first week of June.
Sometimes styled Canada’s “national dish,” poutine originated in mid-twentieth-century Quebecois diners. Smoke’s version, in Murphy’s words, consists of “fresh-cut never-frozen fries … squeaky-fresh high-end cheese [curds] with high-end flavor, and gravy … it’s fun, it’s fast, it’s hot, it’s fresh.” Smoke’s has more than seventy restaurants across Canada, and sponsors a “world poutine eating championship” every year.
Poutine has rarely made the trip over the border, but now Smoke’s is on a quest for “global domination.” The Ann Arbor franchisees–who are all from the area–wanted to bring something unique to the chain’s first Midwest location. Adding the Beaver Trap–their own creation–makes this “the only Smoke’s that offers alcohol,” according to Northam. Building on the space’s past as a World of Beer location, they’re offering forty beers on draft and 100 types in cans. Patrons can order poutine from their servers or pick it up from the counter across from the bar; there’s also a takeout window on the side of the building. Varieties of poutine include traditional, vegetarian, nacho, cheesesteak, and even perogy (the Smoke’s spelling of the Central European dumplings more often rendered “pierogi”).
Employees wear “lumberjack” black-and-red plaid, along with hats featuring the face of brand mascot Smoke. This mythical figure is said to live “in a penthouse cabin made of Lego deep in the woods” and have a penchant for the glam rock that plays in every Smoke’s.
Northam and his co-owners hired former BurgerFi manager Andrew Heningburg as their manager, after the burger stand (on the opposite corner from Smoke’s) abruptly closed in April. Heningburg then brought on many of his former staff.
On opening day, Murphy was excitedly taking pictures with his guests. “I’ve been out on the street telling people to come in,” he says. “You’re always gonna have those naysayers,” he says of online commenters critical of the brand and doubting its durability in Ann Arbor. “What we say is: ‘We love you,'” he says. “We don’t even address it outside of ‘hey, come in and let us please you,’ and if we can’t please you, we’ll make it right for you.”
Smoke’s Poutinerie/The Beaver Trap, 1300 South University, 408-1350. Mon.-Tues. 11 a.m.-2 a.m., Wed.-Sat. 11 a.m.-3 a.m., Sun. 11 a.m.-11 p.m. smokespoutinerie.com
