There are plenty of salmon burgers around, and Arbor Farms’ is not the cheapest–a pack of two costs about $13. But as a returned traveler discovered after a long day in the air, even eaten cold out of the plastic bag, it can be heavenly–as subtle and satisfying as a home-cooked meal.

What makes Arbor Farms’ burger stand out from the crowd? Kitchen manager Elizabeth Lewis says it was already on the menu when she arrived ten years ago, but she thinks the recipe may have originated with a chef from Finland who was “our fish guy” at the time. It hasn’t changed since, she says, and neither has its popularity–“it’s one of our top sellers.”

The recipe includes fresh salmon, coarsely chopped in a food processor; challah breadcrumbs; eggs; capers; lemon zest; salt, and pepper. The ample patties are baked until golden brown.

Lewis prefers hers plated. “I definitely wouldn’t eat it like a burger,” she says. “I would eat [it] as an entree, maybe with an aioli. No bread. No bun.” But she doesn’t mind if a hungry traveler eats it right out of the bag.