“Greek street food” is how Kirk Blohm describes Mezes Greek Grill in half of the former Sushi.com space on North University. Blohm says he’s the only one of the four owners who isn’t Greek, but “I look and act like it. I’ve been working with them so long, it’s rubbed off on me, like paint.” The other partners are Dmitri Roumanis; his father, Sam, who owns the building; and Stavro Sianos.

Blohm is the wisecracking presence behind the counter with St. Michael’s prayer in Latin tattooed on his arm, most of the time personally making the souvlakis and gyros. “The gyros cone”–that rotating tower of meat–“is hand stacked. We make it ourselves with slabs of beef and lamb. You are not going to find better Greek food anywhere, especially for this price. And I don’t say this because I work here. I say it because it’s true.” He goes on to talk about the synergy that is developing between Mezes, Silvio’s Pizza, and Miya across the hall. “It’s like a food court. We get together and talk to each other all the time about how to work together–this bread that comes with your lentil soup is Silvio’s organic bread.”

Mezes Greek Grill, 715 North University, 369-2204. Mon.-Sat. 11 a.m.-9:30 p.m., Sun. noon-8 p.m. mezesgrill.com