Babo on E. Washington at N. Division closed for three weeks this fall; the windows were papered over, and cryptic signs touted a makeover in the works.
What a makeover it was: formerly a mini-grocery and prepared food bar, babo (they don’t capitalize it) reopened in mid-November looking like a spacious white-linen restaurant. It isn’t, quite: when you walk in you must digest a three-page menu while standing at the counter, then order, pay, and tip (unless you’re opening a tab) before finding a table and awaiting food delivery. That “fast casual” setup feels at odds with the elegant new decor.
With accents of green and maize and the motto “Nourishing Our Community,” it’s no surprise that vegetables dominate in the hearty bowls: thick black bean chili with chunks of sweet potato and peppers, for example. Or a bold salad of vinaigrette-drenched mustard greens, farro, meaty mixed mushrooms, walnuts, and aged cheese. At $6 and $10 respectively, these are some of the best values on the menu.
A fresh but tiny fillet of Michigan rainbow trout atop wild rice and edamame seems out of place listed among “big plates.” Likewise, a bulgogi rib-eye cheesesteak with Brinery kimchi was tasty, but petite–it disappeared in a few bites.
Small meals leave room for dessert, and here the new babo (with its same old lowercase initial “b”) shines. Fudgy chocolate cake, spicy pumpkin pie, coconut-flavored chocolate pudding, and big vegan cookies are delicious–and remarkable for using natural sweeteners like agave, maple syrup, and even parsnips instead of refined sugar. A jump up to the coffee counter was warranted to further savor these–or we could have chosen wine, especially if we’d thought to open a tab.
In a corner of the airy space, a few dozen groceries remain–mostly snacks like fruit and nuts, chocolate, and chips, but you can still buy dried pasta and jars of sauce if you are determined to cook. And folks in the nearby high-rises will find it easier than ever to grab a big salad with a protein topper and call it a meal. A sign on the cold case suggests bringing packaged sandwiches to the grill for warming.
As before, babo is a place you can pay ten bucks for a cookie and a juice–perhaps the brightly hued “Red Lipstick,” a cold-pressed blend of carrot, beet, apple, and ginger.
And now you can also run your bill to a hundred bucks for meal and dessert for three.
Babo, 403 E. Washington. 997-8495. Mon.-Fri. 8 a.m.-10 p.m., Sat.-Sun. 9 a.m.-10 p.m. baboannarbor.com