Sharp-eyed drivers on Ellsworth Rd. last month may have spotted bright red lawn signs reading “Wine Is Just Around the Corner,” with an arrow pointing to Phoenix Dr.

The signs lead to an entrance at Zingerman’s Mail Order, where Kristie Brablec, the managing partner for Zingerman’s Food Tours, is operating Ground Control Wines out of her 125-square-foot office.

The venture features natural wines—those produced without pesticides, herbicides, or additives—from spots all over the world, including the U.S., Canada, Mexico, Europe, Australia, and South Africa.

She stocks between 100 to 150 wines, ranging from $18 to $120 a bottle, in white, red, rosé, and sparkling.

Rather than specialize in types of wine, however, Brablec’s aim is to feature a number of small, sustainable producers. “Many of these winemakers are folks I’ve met and work with on my travels, so it’s a melting pot of both worlds.”

Ground Control is not an official part of Zingerman’s, but Brablec got her colleagues’ blessing to open it when the pandemic wiped out Food Tours’ calendar for 2020 and much of 2021.

Acting independently, she was able to set up her shop much more quickly than if she had done so under the Zingerman’s umbrella, where decisions can take years. “Launching a new Zing business is not a fast venture,” she says by email.

Even though Food Tours resumed trips last fall and has a full schedule set for this year, Brablec is focused on expanding the wine shop.

“This is my baby, and I have no intention to give it up now,” Brablec says.

Ground Control Wines, 730 Phoenix Dr. (734) 546–8404. Tues.–Fri. noon–6 p.m., Sat. 11 a.m.–5 p.m. Closed Sun. & Mon. Local delivery is available. ­groundcontrolwines.com