Ann Arbor Observer cover
Snow on Broadway
Ann Arbor Weather:
Friday January 22, 2021
Follow us: facebook twitter RSS feed
Ricewood BBQ truck, Ann Arbor, Michigan, June 2015

Ricewood Barbecue Truck

Quick Bite: July 2015

by M.B. Lewis

From the July, 2015 issue

You're going to feel like you've walked on the set of last year's uplifting movie Chef, about guys getting in touch with life's meaty matters via a food truck, when you track down the new Ricewood barbecue truck. They've heard the comparison before, but it's worth digging deeper to read owner Frank Fejeran's fierce essay at lifeandthyme.com, about his food and family and life choices. You too may end up quitting your job and taking your destiny into your own hands.

That's what former Ravens Club chef Fejeran did. Teaming up with his brother Gabe Golub, Fejeran created a short, exquisite menu and set humane work hours for their new business: Monday through Friday, from 11 a.m. until they run out or 3 p.m., whichever comes first. In May, they started dispensing chow to instantly adoring crowds from their truck parked in the lot behind Morgan & York on Packard.

The brothers have achieved slow-food perfection with a trio of deceptively simple meals in a bowl. The half pound of slow-cooked pork shoulder is sauced and crisped delectably; the half rack of ribs has a complex rub of spices topped with a smear of sauce; and the half pound of brisket comes barely seasoned and buttery tender under its crust. I'd pick any of them over standing prime rib elsewhere.

This is Chamorro-inspired barbecue, reflecting Fejeran's heritage on the Pacific island of Guam. The meat is accompanied by two big scoops of rice with a robust vinegar-soy-based finadene sauce at your choice of "gringo" or "spicy" heat level (they're working with White Lotus Farms, which will eventually grow special chilies from Guam). A helping of crunchy marinated cucumbers seals the twelve-bucks-per-bowl deal. Get your food to go or settle in on a picnic table with soda, tea, or Kool-Aid (really).

If you love high-quality smoked meats sauced, spiced, sliced, and served with finesse, Ricewood will have you proselytizing about heaven in a parking lot. The big black truck, smoker, and blackboard menu are bare bones, and that's likely what your ribs plate will be after you're finished.

---

This article has been edited since it was published in the July 2015 Ann Arbor Observer. Ricewood's ownership has been corrected, and a mistaken description of spicing has been deleted.     (end of article)

[Originally published in July, 2015.]

 


On June 26, 2015, wrote:
This food truck has some of the best food in Ann Arbor. I've never tasted better ribs or brisket in my life!

I hope they can keep their truck here all year long.

Also, you can eat the food inside Morgan and York which is a very nice place to sit and enjoy your meal.





 
Bookmark and Share
Print Comment E-mail

You might also like:

Spectator Sports
Cabins by Innisfree
Fake Ad: November 2020
Jay Forstner
Technology
Art Van Is Now Loves
A fresh start with a classier look.
Micheline Maynard
Middle Eastern Restaurants in Chelsea
Therapist Barred
Michigan regulators suspended the license of Ann Arbor social worker Jo Benson.
Michael Betzold
Huron Valley Harmonizers
An a cappella group that makes it cool to be happy these days.
Jeff Prenevost
Hot Home Market
Working from home and record-low interest rates fuel a boom.
Julie Halpert
Subscribe to the Ann Arbor Observer
Today's Events
semi e news