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Mezes Greek Grill

Quick Bite: October 2018

by M.B. Lewis

From the October, 2018 issue

With the motto "Authentic Greek food prepared and served by authentic Greeks," it's no surprise that the guys behind the counter at Mezes Greek Grill on North University have outgoing energy. They also have an attentive approach to the food they assemble quickly at the grill and counter while you watch.

Mezes's menu is structured in the currently popular "choose your style" fast-casual system. Start by deciding whether you want a rice bowl ($12) or pita wrap ($7-$8), and add your protein of choice (falafel; traditional or chicken gyro; or chargrilled chicken, beef, or pork). Then choose among mild and spicy sauces, and add any extras you want (I favor the stewed tomatoes for bowls, and the peppery house-made spicy feta sauce adds even more flavor).

Note that they'll toss a handful of fries into your sandwich unless you ask them not to. If you really want to indulge, consider instead the $9 "loaded fries" with feta, olives, Greek dressing, and your choice of meat and sauce.

Char-adverse folks should also be advised that Mezes puts a decent brown-to-black edge on both its grilled meats and its thick pita bread (wrapped for sandwiches or cut into tidy triangles to accompany bowls). This is fine if you like the campfire flavor and crisp texture of a grilled edge. I do--and so, apparently, does the college-age bro who yelled, "It's great!" as he dashed out, sandwich in hand. The char flavor cools nicely when combined with super-fresh-tasting yogurt-cucumber tzatziki.

Neither the spinach pie nor the baklava are made in-house ("made by a friend of mine," a co-owner explained, sort of). Both are fine, though--not overstuffed but cheesy and sweet where they're supposed to be.

Mezes shares the mini-food court between Walgreens and Panera on North University with Silvio's and Mama Satto. A quartet of Aegean blue island-scape photos brighten up the high-top-tabled little dining room, and a big window looks out onto the Diag.

Mezes Greek Grill, 369-2204, 715 North University. Mon.-Sat. 11 a.m.-8 p.m. Closed Sun.     (end of article)

[Originally published in October, 2018.]


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