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Restaurant reviews and food news from Ann Arbor Observer reviewers M.B. Lewis and Lee Lawrence, and assorted opinionated Ann Arborites.


Archives for April, 2011

Wednesday, April 27, 2011

Bacon + Pate = Charcuterie @ Tracklements

Tracklements on Kingsley St. in Kerrytown made its name with delicately smoked fish of high quality and enough varieties to keep it interesting. Now they're letting you expand your appetizer platter with a few meaty offerings, including brisket, duck breast, and more. A couple examples:

  • Classic and herbed smoked bacon has enough flavor to stand up in the precision-cut thick long slices. Local smoker Peter Arno starts with Sparrow Market's fresh pork belly and transforms it into guilty pleasure with proprietary lightly sweet/salt cures.
  • Pâté de campagne (or de Tay, as it's referred to in the shop, in honor of its maker, Taylor Rutledge) is a variable mosaic of pretty eats. It begins with pork loin and liver, then gets personal with a wide variety nuts (like hazelnuts or pistachios) fruits (like prunes or figs) and spirits (like brandy or vin santo). Sometimes the pâté features Pete's herb-cured bacon, completing the circle.

Cottage-made locally with care in small batches, these offerings sell out; call ahead to make sure they're available, 734-930 6642. Learn more and see photos on Tracklements Facebook page: http://www.facebook.com/pages/Tracklements-Smokery/117768948240254


posted by Mary Beth Lewis at 11:14 p.m. | 0 comments


Monday, April 11, 2011

Polish Easter Treats, Copernicus Style

A lot of times when I go to Copernicus Eastern European Deli at South Main Market, it's because I'm heading to By the Pound and some bright-colored or unusual foil-wrapped treat catches my eye in this airy well-lit shop. Today it was odd little Playmobil-size painted sugar animals (mainly lambs) at the front counter; they were striking to the point of almost being a little spooky in a pale old-fashioned way.

"In my country they are very popular as Easter decorations on tables and cakes," co-owner Theresa told me. "And then after the meal children love to eat them."

Theresa said some Polish Catholics consider Easter a bigger holiday than Christmas. She's bringing in more traditional Easter foods this week, such as a tart vegetable soup with potatoes and sausage called zorek.

Wh you probably really want to hear about is the cakes, though. On Wednesday, 4/13. Copernicus will have small and large babka, which is a yeast-dough cake with raisins, orange peel, and lemony icing. There will also be fudge Mazurek cake, which she describes as flat, rich, and delicious.

Makes though jelly beans and drugstore cardboard chocolate hollow bunnies sound a little lame, no?


posted by Mary Beth Lewis at 9:16 p.m. | 0 comments


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