Young Chefs' Big Bets I & II
Much of the Grange's produce comes from Tantre Farm and much of the remainder from other Farmer's Market regulars. In her review of the Grange in this issue (see p. 87), Bix Engels says she's looking forward to seeing what Johns does for local food come winter. He's already freezing tomatoes and pesto, and will be getting fresh greens from area hoop houses and greenhouses.
Johns makes his own pates and terrines and sausages. Appetizers are beautifully, perplexingly simple, like a dish of radishes, butter, salt, and bread. A grilled pork main course with crispy pork confit, cauliflower pale ale puree, and fried brussels sprouts will set you back $25.
While Bella Ciao was all romance and warm shadows, the Johnses have made the space as bright and clean as a Shaker farmhouse, painting the walls and ceiling bright white and the wainscoting sky blue. They have opened the upstairs bar that Bella Ciao reserved for private parties. The bar has its own menu and is open two hours later than the dining room.
Grange Kitchen & Bar, 118 W. Liberty. 995-2107. Mon.-Thurs. 5-10 p.m. (bar open until midnight), Fri. & Sat. 5-11 p.m. (bar open until 1 a.m.). Closed Sun. www.grangekitchenandbar.com