The mushroom tart appetizer arrived topsy-turvy, the thin, delicate crust broken over a mushroom medley, a parmesan-tomato sauce spilled alongside on the plate. Cooked in a sous-vide bath, a wonderfully creamy poached egg, covered by another crispy wafer dotted with date puree and vinegar powder and perched atop a celery root mash, highlighted the kitchen's mastery of contrasting flavors and textures. The shrimp-and-grits appetizer was an exquisitely refined version of the southern classic, and a salad of cooked, chilled vegetables couldn't have been more beautifully prepared or artfully presented.
Gingerbread spices marvelously accented the natural sweetness of silky carrot-parsnip soup. But the game mousse, though incredibly smooth and buttery under a cloak of tart cherry gelee, lacked the deep meat essence needed as a counterpoint to the fruit. We missed that same depth of flavor, as well as seasoning, in the bone marrow custard.