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Monday April 21, 2014
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Unexpected Gift

 

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Two noodle dishes also lend themselves to hot weather: the japchae and bibim naeng myun. Japchae is composed around skinny, translucent noodles made from mung beans, sauteed with carrots, scallions, and onions. Small amounts of seared beef appear here too but more as a condiment than a main ingredient--and that, plus its light sweetish sauce, made it filling without being weighty. In my carryout order of bibim naeng myun, the noodles had clumped a bit by the time I got it home, but still it was a treat for the dog days. The main ingredient here is cold buckwheat noodles in a resoundingly hot chili sauce that contrasted with cooling elements like a hard-boiled egg and crisp slices of Korean pear.

One of the few misses was steamed fish with sauteed vegetables. It just didn't have the punch and character I associate with Korean food--the fillets were limp, and the vegetables seemed like an afterthought. One of the biggest hits was dak bokum, a fine lunch of chicken breast stir-fried with a moderately spicy sauce. Rice comes with most entrees; BeWon mixes black and white rice, creating a purplish color.

Service is prompt and friendly, although one well-meaning server kept steering us away from the more adventurous dishes toward ones more like "normal American food."

BeWon has fried banana and a few flavors of ice cream for dessert, but I like to finish the meal with a cup of the house's ginger tea, brewed with apple and ginger root. Besides, the servers always bring a wedge of watermelon with the check. Even sweeter: dinner for two is usually around $30-$35, including tip.

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