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Wednesday April 01, 2015
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Uncommon Brunches



After several exchanges like this, I began to think people like the idea of brunch more than they like brunch itself. Weekends get busy, and the same old restaurants seem same old. So perhaps it's time to try some other places.

None of these has a song written about it, or offers a lavish buffet that would put a visitor from the developing world into shock. They range from in size from pretty big to cozy. But all boast involved owners and good food--which, depending on where you go, could be a pedigreed corned beef hash, an inspired version of eggs benedict with lemony-yummy hollandaise, or just a thick wedge of rich pumpkin coffee cake swirled with chocolate.

You will remember them, I believe, if someone asks where you like to go.

At Zingerman's Roadhouse, little map collages on the walls trace the nationwide sources for their cheeses, oysters, meats, and more. It might sound precious, but actually it's intriguing because you can taste the distinction in offerings like Nueske's applewood-smoked bacon from Wisconsin or Grafton Village sharp cheddar from Vermont. And where else around here can you get real southern grits, with a texture just chewy enough to be interesting, in a buttery porridge served with your choice of cheese or Michigan maple syrup?

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