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Tuesday May 30, 2017
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The rise of NeoPapalis



Pick a Slice, Any Slice Attitude: New York Pizza Depot's pizza isn't the only thing that's saucy at this hard-to-pigeonhole joint. It's the place to go for slices in town (for atmosphere and slow-food chops, head back around the corner to Silvio's). Scaled back to just its original location and now serving beer, NYPD is central-cast with tough guys--including grandmotherly and bleach blonde varieties. You can feel them rolling their eyes behind the tall, dark glass-topped counter as you slowly peruse the dozen or so portions of pies on display, ready to be slapped into the hot oven and onto a paper plate for you. The variety is endlessly surprising, from cheeseless multi-veggie to BBQ chicken to ziti-pasta-topped. The hot oven will give any of them a passably crispy bottom crust, but the toppings don't always warm much, which makes me a little nervous about those chicken options sitting out ... I can't remember which types I've liked best over the years--maybe that feta and veggie? And is that the spinach and mushroom I once really liked ... did it have those olives and onions? All right, you don't have to wave the spatula! I'm almost ready to decide ...

New York Pizza Depot, 605 E. William, 669-6973. Daily 10 a.m.-4 a.m. Pizza by the slice from $2.22; pizzas $7.99 and up; hot subs $7.49; Italian specialties start at $10.50. Wheelchair accessible.

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