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Wednesday April 23, 2014
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The Black Pearl

 

continued

We went back a few weeks later to actually try the food. Drinks-for me, a glass chosen from a short, dull, uninformative wine list; for my friends, fancy martinis like the "pearcicle" with pear vodka and elderflower liqueur-carried us through till the appetizers arrived. We'd ordered a few starters to split, which, unfortunately for our table of four, came mostly in groupings of three. The garlic shrimp were plump and perfectly sautéed but had just the barest trace of garlic flavor. The oysters in the bacony oysters Rockefeller were overpowered by lumpy lardoons and a shaggy coat of spinach covered with a hardened clump of Parmesan. The simple raw oysters were good-fresh and slippery-although I wish our server had been able to supply us with more information about what varieties we were getting (according to the menu, the trio consists of one Chesapeake and two "rotating oysters"). That $7 cone of french fries was a generous portion, but the standardized potatoes didn't distinguish themselves enough to be featured as a separate appetizer.

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