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Wednesday July 30, 2014
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Terry B's reviewed

 

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Desserts were very good. Even the ubiquitous molten chocolate cake was a cut above the usual, with a dark, rich chocolate center. I preferred the key lime pot de crème, a tart custard contrasting with an accompanying fruity swirl of house-made strawberry gelato. One night we swooned over a pecan tart baked in a shortbread crust and served with the house's coffee gelato. Another night we laughed about the architecture of the "Tropical Tower." You don't need Freud to figure out what they were thinking when they built this: a crisp, tan vertical tube stuffed with cubed citrus fruits, planted upright in a soft circle of crustless cheesecake, and topped with an explosion of whipped cream. Once we stopped laughing, it was a pleasing contrast of textures and flavors.

Service, particularly outside on slow weeknights, can be a bit of a rollercoaster: lots of attention when you don't want it-for instance, a curious waiter hovering over water glasses waiting for the punch line on a diner's story-contrasted with long stretches of inattention. Service is always better inside than out and better on busy nights, when there are more servers and they seem more in sync with the restaurant's rhythm.

On those nights, the pace can be nearly perfect, with enough time between courses that the meal feels leisurely but not tedious. It can set the mood for the rest of the evening, especially in summer. After dinner, we always wander through the village, past the fragrant gardens and clipped lawns, on Friday nights maybe catching a few sets at the Monument Park concerts before heading home.

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