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Sunday April 20, 2014
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Terry B's reviewed

 

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I found Terry B's signature corn and seafood chowder overly thick, and three wee shrimp on top seemed to stretch the definition of seafood, but others at the table liked it. A summery asparagus veloute was superbly textured but tasted more like pea soup than asparagus. A flat-bread pizza's delicious toppings were presented on a rock-hard bread platform. Plus, it seemed to take forever to make it.

The summer menu balances beef and seafood main courses, and also includes two new vegetarian mains-mushroom risotto and potato gnocchi-that I did not get a chance to try. One offering that stays on the menu throughout the year is the elegantly interpreted whitefish. The sweet, mild fish filets are coated with a thin crushed-cashew crust, sautéed, and served with a creamy risotto spiked with crisp slivers of asparagus.

The kitchen nearly always offers a seafood special of the day. The centerpiece of my barramundi special, a pan-seared filet, was overcooked and hence on the dry side, but other elements made up for the seafood's shortcomings: the fish was stacked on a giant rice cake, resembling a lush monster aroncini ball with a creamy rice center and crisp breaded exterior and very smoky bits of house-cured bacon. Similarly, two of four scallops were an off-putting sort of pearly gray rather than seared, but the plate was not a total loss, thanks to the accompanying sweet po-tato hash. Terry B's rib-eye steak was satisfying on several levels. It was a quality piece of meat, perfectly cooked, and its accompaniments-truffle French fries, charred broccolini, roasted onions-were interesting without being fussy.

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