Small Plates, Big Ambitions
With twenty-four dinner entrees along with those twenty-seven small plates, Graham's menu is over-ambitious for a restaurant that's open all day. Add a quartet of house-made desserts to the to-do list, and you're really pushing it. I thought the chocolate version of tres leches cake was on the heavy side, though my dinner companions liked it; raspberry sorbet was a welcome light option.
Still, Graham's wraps lemon halves in cheery yellow cheesecloth so seeds don't squirt onto your fish. It serves coffee in Fiestaware-style mugs. And those small plates make for happy grazing.
Management says traffic is up, as are catering requests. Graham's is comforting weary travelers and winning over some local folks as well.
610 Hilton Blvd.
Daily 6 a.m.-11 p.m.
Lunch $3.95-$7.95, dinner small plates $3.95-$8.95, dinner entrees $12.95-$19.95, desserts $3.95-$4.95
[Originally published in September, 2010.]