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Tuesday May 23, 2017
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Sheesh Reviewed



Even if you think you're not ordering much food, plan on a doggie bag. The portions range from generous fattoush and dinner salads and pita sandwiches to ginormous entrees. Lunch specials include a sandwich (all the usual choices done splendidly--falafel, grape leaves, tawook, shawarma, kafta, and mjadara, plus meat or veggie ghalaba) plus salad or soup (hearty lentil, chock-full-of-veggies lamb or chicken vegetable, and a bold lamb chili) and plenty of rice or fries--a huge meal for under $7.50. Sandwiches by themselves are less than $4--a real bargain. My own litmus test--the dish that drove me to search out distant branches of La Shish--is the mjadara, lentils with rice and caramelized onions. Sheesh's is reliably hearty and flavorful, nothing like the soggy, onion-less variety you find in many other local Middle Eastern restaurants.

Fries are not what come to mind when you think of Middle Eastern food, but Sheesh's are crispy contenders for best in town. Sheesh is brilliant with its veggies. In every incarnation, they are substantial and carefully cooked to just the right tenderness--a delightful reminder that this cuisine is one of the world's healthiest.

Meat eaters won't be disappointed, either. I tried a dish I'd never had, called David Basha--tender little lamb meatballs that tasted like piquant sausage nestled in a succulent veggie bed. And Sheesh's sauteed chicken livers are to die for, the best I've ever had--sinfully delectable, since liver is no longer touted as good for you. But the only seafood I tried, the swordfish, seemed bland and overcooked.

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