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Wednesday February 22, 2017
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Seafood Trio

 

continued

My wife generally orders simply grilled fish, and it's always done nicely. Her swordfish special was a thick, generous portion, grilled just right, but juices from the steamed spinach diluted the tasty grapefruit beurre blanc. Besides the usual broiled, grilled, and blackened options for the day's fresh catch, you can have it steamed Shanghai-style for a small charge, a nice change of pace. Overall, Real Seafood does a better job than Gandy Dancer of dressing up its fish without obscuring it.

Due to my cioppino addiction, I rarely choose the other menu classics or specialties. However, the grilled Mediterranean-style whole striped bass is another story. Yes, this is a whole, bone-in fish, head and eyes included. Don't be squeamish--if you're OK with a rack of ribs or peel-and-eat shrimp, maybe it's time for dissect-and-eat fish. The first time I tried this, they got it spot on, skin nicely charred, aromatic with Mediterranean herbs, succulent inside. When I ordered it again more recently, a perfectly cooked interior just managed to make up for not-quite-crispy skin and a mere smattering of herbs. It was still good enough that it'll get another chance.

We usually dine out with our five-year-old son, and he nearly polished off a generous, kids-menu portion of fish and chips. With the thick hunk of fresh cod freshly battered and flavorful and the chips beautifully done, it was adult quality.

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