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Wednesday April 23, 2014
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Road Food Reviewed



On the next glorious spring Sunday my husband and I began the day with a leisurely drive to Grass Lake, winding slowly along back routes in Sunday-drive mode that must have been infuriating to anyone behind us in a hurry. Our goal was the diner's brunch, where I had my eye on the breakfast menu's corned beef hash. A fan even of Hormel's canned, I found this hash near perfect, with good proportions of moist meat and potatoes, topped by two nicely poached eggs and garnished with thick slices of toast. My husband's huevos rancheros, a brunch special, proved not to be the typical fried eggs on crispy tortillas slathered with a spicy tomato sauce but a scramble of eggs, sliced jalapenos, diced tomatoes, and cheese on a small mountain of fluffy/crispy American fries--odd but savory.

Foster offers French toast made from any bread he serves, including quick breads like banana. The "Elvis" is, as you might imagine, over the top, a sugar overload of battered apple-cinnamon bread finished with peanut butter, bacon, banana slices, and vanilla ice cream. I avoided it, though I watched many other patrons dig in enthusiastically. I did try a pancake--the kid's "stack," which was actually one dinner-plate-sized orb that more than filled me up. Rather chewy and dense and a bit tangy, the pancake was tasty, if not the light, fluffy, drier type I prefer.


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