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Friday April 25, 2014
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Road Food Reviewed

 

continued

directly from freezer to fryer, from can to plate, with nary a vegetable--fresh, frozen, or otherwise--in sight. Even with Jane and Michael Stern's Roadfood guide in hand, we rarely seem to pass near the hot spots it lists, and we almost never luck into our own.

But perhaps we have been searching too far afield. Recently, a drive to Grass Lake's Grand Illusion, the gallery and architectural salvage yard that lines much of the town's main thoroughfare, provided a lucky find. The tiny Grass Lake Diner across the street looks rather unremarkable. Inside, however, chef/owner Matt Foster, late of Oakland Hills Country Club in Bloomfield Hills, makes good meals out of typical, and not-so-typical, diner food. No printed menus exist, just a dry-erase board that lists a mostly unchanging all-day breakfast lineup, rotating lunch options--mostly sandwiches--and, on Sunday, brunch specials. Friendly, cheerful staff serve plates laden with gargantuan portions, overseen by a grandmotherly local who keeps busy polishing silverware and reciting her favorites--and not-so-favorites--to any customers undecided on what to order.

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