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Friday September 19, 2014
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Review: Beezy's Cafe

 

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I liked the breakfast plate, too, a blue-collar start to the day, with eggs, potatoes, crisp apple-wood-smoked bacon, and toast. In a way that makes the place feel like Mom's kitchen, if you want the eggs any way other than scrambled, you're out of luck. That's not to say Mayhew isn't flexible-she whipped up a good-looking custom vegan tofu burrito topped with sautéed veggies for the table next to ours-it's just that she has a lot to cook on one four-burner stove.

Every day Mayhew makes two soups, one with meat and one vegetarian. Her chicken soup is exuberant, laced with lots of tarragon and plenty of carrots, celery, and chunks of breast meat. Since the soups are self serve and held in a steam pot, the broth-based soups may be a better choice than the cream soups. The cream of asparagus I tasted had gone a little too thick by late afternoon, but though it lost points on consistency, it still had excellent flavor. On another visit, the mulligatawny really didn't taste like any mulligatawny I've ever had, but it was nevertheless a good concoction, with dark- and light-meat chicken and vegetables in a zippy broth.

For about $7, you can pair a big bowl of soup with any half sandwich or small salad. "Small" is relative-a small "Beezy's Salad" was plentiful, a deep bowl of mixed greens, thinly sliced red onions, homemade croutons, slices of roast chicken, a scoop of egg salad, lots of crumbled bacon, and just the right amount of ranch dressing.

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