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Wednesday April 16, 2014
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Review: Beezy's Cafe

 

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Much of the sandwich making takes place behind the counter in the main room, which intensifies the social spin. It makes a difference when you can interact with the person preparing your food, when she asks you afterwards as you pour more coffee from the self-serve bar, "You had the breakfast burrito, right? Was it OK?"

It was way more than OK-delicious, in fact.

The burrito is one of the ten or so breakfast plates on the chalkboard menu, the rest of which is devoted to sandwiches, soups, and salads. Canada-born, Mayhew grew up all over before settling in Michigan, putting down roots in Petoskey before replanting herself in Ypsilanti. With the zeal of one who picked the place she wants to live, Mayhew is an enthusiastic locovore, but not doctrinaire or elitist. The businesswoman in her considers price and quality as well as geography: she's the first restaurateur I've talked to who proudly points to Gordon Food Service as a supplier: "They're a huge Michigan company with good prices and a lot of great products from here."

This practical approach helps her keep prices reasonable, but she also shops much closer to home: the tortilla in that $5.95 breakfast burrito comes from nearby Dos Hermanos Market. Mayhew stuffs it with local eggs and wonderfully robust Dos Hermanos chorizo, adds a tangy grated cheddar, and rolls it tightly. A scattering of home fries with a deep shiny cast delivers exotic flavors like cumin and paprika and a pepper blend from Alden's Mill House in Antrim County.

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