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Sunday April 20, 2014
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Pop-up Dinners



Colleagues had raved about Central Provisions, and I looked forward to trying its fare, which is based on seasonal flavors. Two friends joined me one Wednesday in June. With three of us and a menu of just six dishes, we ordered one of everything.

Crostini with homemade ricotta, lemon, and garlic scapes came out first, a lovely paean to spring. Herb salad with rye croutons, beets, pickled asparagus, and a caraway dressing offered sharp, earthy contrasts, and the pork rillettes that followed were satisfying, if lacking in depth of flavor. We found the romesco that garnished roasted zucchini a dull version of that typically robust sauce, and the steamed mussels with a garlicky tomato sauce, white beans, chilis, and mint fine but not outstanding. Dessert, described as pistachio shortcake, was really a scone, quite nice, and nicely paired with whipped cream and a strawberry-rhubarb jam. While all the food was carefully prepared and tasty, nothing "wowed" us that night, but I trust my colleagues, so I intend to try Central Provisions again, later in the season, when Michigan produce is at its height.

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