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Saturday July 26, 2014
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Points south

 

continued

The place does much better with vegetables. In fajitas, omelets, sopes, and arepas--little corn cakes that look like English muffins--they're garden-fresh and reliably roasted or sauteed to just the right texture. The arepas come topped with beans, guacamole, cheese, sour cream, and a choice of beef, chicken, chorizo, or roasted veggies. Broccoli--not a veggie I associate with Latino food--makes an incongruous but not unwelcome appearance among the veggies.

Still, I found many of the Mexican items underspiced. To really appreciate Sabor Latino, you need to venture to the samplings of Cuban, Puerto Rican, Venezuelan, Argentinian, Colombian, Salvadoran, and other Central and South American cuisines. This is the only place in town where you can find any food at all from many of these cultures.

The really special experience is the weekend brunch. The pupusas, a Salvadoran dish with thick corn cakes sandwiching eggs, cheese, onions, and a choice of meat, is a delightful change of pace (it compares to an Egg McMuffin as a wedding cake does to a Hostess Twinkie). You can feast on a "giant Mexican breakfast"--mouth-watering chilaquiles (tortilla chips fried crispy then softened with salsa), three eggs, refried beans, and guacamole. But even the brunch dishes not labeled as "giant" are large, if not ginormous. They range from huevos rancheros and omelets to more unusual fare like the Colombian-style omelets pericos, stuffed with tomatoes and onions, with arepas and a plantain smothered in white cheese on the side (an amazing marriage of sweet and salty). Remarkably, all the eggs for our party of six were perfectly cooked--but it took an inexcusable forty minutes to serve them.

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