The service is indifferent. A cook comes out and curses in Spanish at the waiter beside our table. The desserts arrive without individual plates. Worst of all, the waiter explains that the menu always includes daily specials and mentions the two offered that day-but not until after we have finished our desserts.
I learn that the Aguirres have been bought out and that the new owners run a chain called Pancho Villa. The other outlets are all in Virginia; this is the first of several planned for Michigan. I'm told this place will eventually be renamed accordingly.
Act 3 takes place on a drizzly fall day. The place is almost deserted as our group arrives after 1 p.m. for lunch. It's still called Las Fuentes, but it resembles the place I first visited about as much as this gloomy afternoon resembles that bright hot summer evening.
On this visit, the corn chips seem a little stale and need salt. A cheese dip appetizer is flavorful and creamy but speckled with chilies that aren't fresh. Our waiter looks shocked when we ask for fresh chilies, but he does bring them.
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