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Saturday August 30, 2014
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Jolly Pumpkin

 

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Pizzas continued the uneven trend. The first time we tried the Truffle Pizza it was perfect, a thin crispy crust topped with a nice ratio of shiitakes, goat cheese, mozzarella, parmesan, a drizzle of truffle oil, and a handful of dressed arugula. The second time, however, the pizza was underbaked and overloaded, resulting in a gloppy mess. Our other two choices shared the unfortunate combo of soft crusts and piled-on toppings. At least the Fire and Smoke Pizza, featuring chipotle tomato sauce, chicken, roasted peppers, and smoked mozzarella, had zest. The Mediterranean Pizza, a blend of unsalted bland roasted eggplant, herbed goat cheese, preserved lemon, and kalamata olives, had none.

A friend and I found the JP Burger, a patty of grass-fed ground beef topped with Cambozola cheese, sauteed cremini mushrooms, bacon, and tomato, nicely cooked to medium rare as ordered, but characteristically dry and dense. Although we support the animal welfare and environmental and health concerns that favor grass-fed over grain-fed beef, our palates still craved the juicy fattiness of the latter. Another night the Sweet and Spicy Cobia Sandwich was wonderful, a baguette filled with a pan-seared, perfectly cooked fish filet, sambal mayonnaise, and shredded carrot-daikon pickle. The Porchetta Sandwich would have been wonderful if the kitchen had not forgotten to salt the meat. Without seasoning, the pork, though beautifully roasted and juicy, lacked savor, and the bun came to the table without the promised salsa verde, fennel sauerkraut, and spinach. A pile of tasty thin fries and a flavorless zucchini pickle accompanied all the sandwiches.

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