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Monday April 21, 2014
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The half-pound burgers are cumbersome but quite good, grilled to order and served on fresh soft buns from Avalon Bakery in Detroit. Of the various burger versions, my favorite was the "Texas," with a sharp pickle, Jack cheese, and minimalist coleslaw. I got this in trade from my companion for my original order-a "black, blue, and bacon burger"-which was loaded with too much stuff for my taste. In the end, we were both happy. Sweet-potato fries best the standard taters here, and will be familiar to anyone who has had the red-strings at Grizzly Peak.

As with Hemingway, not to mention other Lobdell-Carlson eateries, alcohol plays a central role here. At Blue Tractor, with its on-site brewery, beer is the beverage of choice, followed by bourbon. I ordered once from the pro-forma wine list and the barkeep looked at me as if I'd lost my mind; I understood why when I took a sip of the god-awful Rodney Strong Chardonnay. On subsequent trips I stuck with the house brews. Offerings change, but on my trips I tried a lovely IPA and a hoppy amber pils. The flavors are generally good, but Blue Tractor needs to perfect the pour and get a better head on these.

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