Tracy Ling and her husband, Ricky Yue, the new owners of Lai Lai on the corner of Ellsworth and Carpenter, are lucky to have a friend like Lily Au to do the kind of cold-call PR work that Lai Lai needs right now: her call alerted us that Lai Lai had not only changed hands but landed in some familiar ones. Yue was Great Lake Chinese Restaurant’s main chef for eighteen years, and a member of the family that owned it, though he prefers not to talk about the internal rift that led to Great Lake’s demise a few years ago.
“They are shy people,” says Au, who is not (she gives them a pep talk in rapid Cantonese, and he finally gives up that his uncle “Mr. Pam” was Great Lake’s owner). He’s not shy in the kitchen though. While Au translates for Tracy–her English is basic, but not so basic that it disguises her graceful, calm personality–Ricky begins sending food out of the kitchen until it becomes apparent that an eight-course feast is being prepared for us. (This is not the way things usually work, and at the Observer’s insistence all food was paid for, and the leftovers packed up to be taken home by hungry employees.)
Over cold meats and jellyfish, Ling explains that she and Ricky bought the restaurant last summer and would like to eventually change the name, because Lai Lai’s Yelp reputation under previous owners was hovering between one and two stars. But right now they’re just concentrating on the food. “They want to bring back the era and taste of the Great Lake Chinese Restaurant,” says Au, savoring the opportunity to coin a memorable marketing phrase.
“Lai lai means ‘come come’ in Mandarin, so we ask people to come taste,” says Au, over scallion pancakes and shrimp balls. She explains that the three of them speak Cantonese and Mandarin. Mandarin, China’s official language, with its four tones, is famously challenging for English speakers, but Cantonese is even worse. It has nine: she sings them out. “It is quite suffering for even Chinese children to learn,” she says.
Walnut shrimp comes to the table. “Walnuts are good for the brain,” says Au. She’s an Alzheimer’s specialist and in training to become a registered nurse. “Also, mayo is used in this dish. It’s good for the brain too.” Is mayo used in Chinese cooking? “It is now. China change a lot,” says Ling drily.
Over beef and king mushrooms, Ling explains that this unusual and expensive mushroom keeps its meaty texture when cooked. “We import them from Canada. They cost thirty dollars for a small box.”
Au adds that on weekends, Lai Lai serves traditional bone broth. It may be the only restaurant in town that serves this ancient cure-all. Like walnuts and mayo, Au says, it is good for the brain. “It has glutamine. I’ll Google it and show you how glutamine helps us.” She tells her phone to find glutamine then bursts out laughing: “my pronunciation not so good.” Her phone had Googled “help for abused men.”
Lai Lai, 4023 Carpenter, 677-0790. Mon., Wed. & Thurs. 11 a.m.-10 p.m., Fri. & Sat. 11 a.m.-10:30 p.m., Sun. 11:30 a.m.-10 p.m. Closed Tues. lailaiypsilanti.com
