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Tuesday October 17, 2017
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"The hamburger meat comes from Bob," Eve says, meaning Bob Sparrow of Sparrow Market next door. My burger was cooked expertly to medium rare, capped with thick melted Gouda, and served with sliced tomato and red onion. The accompanying house-made potato chips are extraordinarily good, simple, thin, and fried in duck fat. I know it sounds unhealthy, but duck fat is one of the better animal fats, and it helps raise the level of "good" cholesterol.

The sweet of the day was a cup of dark pots de creme, an almost fudge-thick, deeply chocolaty custard, paired with a cup of whipped cream barely sweetened with brown sugar. Try it with an espresso for an experiment in luxurious mouth feel--dark chocolate, bitter coffee, sweet cream.

Both my visits were in the first week of lunch service. With the place only moderately busy, the waitstaff gave us the full-on eve experience, with solicitous attention. Occasional hiccups, like a stained coffee cup, were quickly dispatched.

Lunch isn't inexpensive, but it is roughly half of what you'd pay for a dinner entree here. The bottom line is even less if, like us, you skip wine.

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