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Wednesday April 23, 2014
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continued

Halberg is "a chef, and he's comfortable in the kitchen," Eve says of her new GM. "It's been fun for me to have somebody to brainstorm with on food and menus." Their collaboration appears to be a creative one: new dishes like a barbeque degustation and cured grilled wild salmon with Asian spices have joined old favorites like inspired nachos and Thai chicken on the dinner menu.

But I'll focus here on the new lunch service, which officially launched July 30. I was already an eve fan, but lunch knocked my socks off: this food is simple but exceptional.

Aronoff studied at the most prestigious culinary school in France, Le Cordon Bleu. On my recent visits I'd just come back from nearly three weeks in France, so I still had France on my mind and on my palate. Eve's style is more international--and more her own--than French, but it reminds me of what Julia Child said about French chefs: they are masters of method, and they take great care in the kitchen.

The method part involves learnable skills, which Eve has down pat. The careful part is more of a temperament thing, and Eve has it in spades, too. But careful is not the same as cautious. Her food is perfectionist but at the same time exuberant and surprising. It is also--and I know this is a weird word for food--heartfelt.

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