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Tuesday September 02, 2014
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Crown Jewel

 

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Seafood entrees were also consistently amazing. The sweet, flaky halibut was encrusted in potatoes and served over spinach, making good use of my two favorite foods. The prawns stuffed with crab were accompanied by a curried coconut cream with just a little heat that creeps up on you. And Pohlman takes special pride in his Chilean sea bass--he says he can't even order it anywhere else. Described on the menu as steamed, it is actually lightly poached in ginger and a homemade teriyaki, which gives it a soy-flavored glaze. The fish is just cooked through, resolving like butter on the tongue, and matched well with an equally supple Rombauer chardonnay. I have to agree with Pohlman on this one--I actually tried an Asian-inspired version at another well-regarded local restaurant earlier in the day, but it was not even in the same league as the Grill's signature dish.

The wine list is expertly selected among boutique estates, with a strong emphasis on California wines, and only a handful of French among the other offerings. While the extensive cabernet, pinot noir, and chardonnay selections are excellent with traditional main courses, and sauvignon blanc pairs well with the Asian-inspired seafood dishes, I would have liked more representation among other spicy white wine varietals, including pinot gris, gewurztraminer, reisling, and viogniers. I did appreciate the red wine choices, including red zinfandels, and Italian, Spanish, and South American wines for the lamb, steak chimichurri, and other distinctive meat courses.

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