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Friday February 24, 2017
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Bright spot

 

continued

The same server declared duck confit egg rolls the most popular appetizer--they're slant-cut and stacked on end into an impressive cluster of towers. For something lighter, try the fresh veggie summer roll with peanut sauce and coconut curried carrot vinaigrette. Vegetarian French onion soup was also pleasing, with a thick root vegetable base as an appealing alternative to the usual salty beef broth.

There are a dozen "principals," as entrees are called here. The rack of lamb de Provence dresses for success in a medley of mint sauce and pesto. Crusty brown over tender pink on every forkful, it's what you offer people who think they don't like lamb--to make them think again.

The award for most striking presentation went to coriander-dusted sea scallops. An array of summery hues and flavors comes together in what the menu describes as "scallops sauteed to perfection served with a citrus beurre blanc, orange curry coconut glace, balsamic paint, glazed sweet potato nest, coconut jasmine rice, and haricot verts." Just one complaint: the prose outweighs the meager portion! We scavenged stray grains from the tiny rice hummock to dredge through the brushwork of candied sauce.

We might not have fixated on the size of the exquisite scallop dish if our other seafood choice, ginger salmon wrapped in chard, didn't come in such a massive package. It tasted fine, if eye-wateringly hot from the generous layer of chili-fired onions. But with the rice also wrapped into the green bulwark, it made for an awkward dinner to navigate.

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