of rendered fat for frying potatoes. Even better, though, was one of Harnois' chickens, slowly cooked on the rotisserie, paired with roasted tomatoes, and set atop Pasta e Pasta's sturdy egg noodles. The chicken was moist and full-flavored, not bland as mass-produced hens are.
The ubiquitous Zingerman name pops up at the Farmers Market in its Creamery incarnation. Oddly, the downtown deli itself doesn't sell all the cheeses that the Creamery produces, but you usually can find a half dozen choices at the market. This fall I was thrilled to find burrata, a perishable fresh cheese with a mozzarella skin and a creamy curd interior. I served it as part of a light dinner with sliced tomatoes, roasted peppers, fresh shell beans, Kenzoil's basil-infused garlicky olive oil, and a Mill Pond baguette. For a dinner party, I paired the Creamery's City Goat, a $7 round of fresh tangy goat cheese, with grilled hot peppers, mashed sardines and pickled tomatoes to make an impromptu antipasto platter. Tecumseh's Four Corners Creamery also sells rounds of fresh goat cheese that are milder-and at $5, less expensive-than Zingerman's.