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Thursday April 24, 2014
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Artful Taqueria

 

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Everyone in my party agreed on the addictive quality of the fried plantains, cut into cubes rather than the typical slices and dusted with queso blanco and crema. We also devoured the elotes, two ears of corn grilled and liberally slathered with chipotle mayonnaise, queso fresco, crushed chile, and lime. The tortilla soup was warmly satisfying, thicker than the broth renditions we had eaten before, and deeply flavorful. We preferred the substance and heft of the miniature sopes--round boats of fried masa filled with spiced beef picadillo and topped with radishes sliced into hair-like julienne--over the equally diminutive gorditas--airy fried masa puffs lightly padded with chipotle chicken and dressed with avocado puree. Flautas, touted by waitstaff and friends, pleased some at the table, but I thought the duck filling got lost in the jumble of fried corn tortilla, avocado-poblano sauce, and radish-lettuce confetti. Fried chicken fans might want to try pollo feliz, "happy chicken," three crispy pieces generously slathered with a smoky, tangy barbecue sauce and garnished with crunchy slaw, though the night we ordered it the pieces were raw at their centers.

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